Snæfellsjökull Peninsula - Iceland
Snæfellsjökull Peninsula: Landscapes of legend
A landscape of untethered beauty, a place unlike any other. A realm of legend and mythology, unworldly unlike any place. Landscapes and legends combine in mysterious fashion on Iceland’s Snæfellsjökull peninsula to leave a lasting impression on those who visit.
The peninsula is characterised by moss covered lava fields, volcanoes, glaciers, waterfalls, sea cliffs and beaches of black and gold. This land of ice and fire was born from the forces of the volcano, Snæfellsjökull, its gentle slopes now blanketed by a bright white glacier. To explore the peninsula one must encircle this majestic mountain that dominates the surrounding countryside. The Icelandic Saga explains that one of the country’s first settlers, a troll-man, now resides within the glacier as protector of the peninsula.
The nearby Stapafell volcano with its steep black pyramidal face sits in striking juxtaposition to the sloping white peak of Snæfellsjökull. This curious mountain has a protruding rock at its very peak called Fellskross, a sign of holy powers at the times of the vikings. It is said that this unique mountain is home of hidden people, known as elves.
At the foot of these volcanoes are a number of cave systems that act as doorways to the subterranean. Journey to the centre of the Earth on a wondrous tour of Vatnshellir Cave, a 200 metre long lava tube of surprising colours and sinister formations.
The cragged mountain range hides a number of secrets, including Rauðfeldsgjá gorge. A trail leads into the shadow of the mountain before the mysterious opening to the rock appears. A gurgling stream laid with stepping stones forms an adventurous path through the ravine and into a secluded mossy grotto. It is said the troll-man and protector of Snæfellsjökull, mortally threw his nephew into the gorge as revenge for his daughter being pushed onto an iceberg that floated away.
One of the most photographed mountains in the world can also be found in the Snæfellsjökull peninsula. The much admired green peak of Kirkjufell, or ‘church mountain’, has a broad base with a summit that stretches into the sky like an arrowhead. A stunning image features this mountain towering over the mist of three waterfalls. However, take the time to explore the surrounding countryside and allow the mountain to reveal itself in all its glory.
Follow the scenic highway north to Saxhóll crater, where after 4,000 years the crumbling remnants of a volcanic eruption remain. A tailored stairway hugs the red volcano’s curved ascent, providing accessibility to the peak within minutes. The rim of the crater provides vistas of breathtaking wonder, shadowing a deep crater grown over with grass and moss. It’s surprising that a place once consumed by earth’s explosive forces is now filled with nature’s tranquility.
Further to the west is the Black Lava Pearl beach of Djúpalónssandur, previously an inhabited fishing village. Evidence of its past can be found in the form of lifting stones which were used by fishermen to test their strength and qualify them for work on the fishing boats. Also lying on the beach are the corroded iron remnants of a 1948 shipwreck that serve as testament to the sea’s unpredictability. However, the beach is primarily visited for its quirky black, grey and red rock formations caused by extensive lava flows.
The neighbouring fishing villages of Amarstapi and Hellnar provide an invaluable insight into the life and times of Iceland. These are best explored via the breathtaking coastal trail that starts just past the popular Fjöruhúsið Café in Hellnar and winds its way through a mossy lava field to the idyllic harbour of Amarstapi. The imaginative rock formations appear as if created by a sculptor and form the perfect curation to the hike. Be accompanied along the way by the resident seabirds but be wary of the territorial Arctic tern that is likely to turn on you.
Further north amateur archaeologists will revel in the 15th century fishing village of Gufuskálar. Evidence of landing sites and boat sheds can be detected along the coast line. Further inland are dozens of fishing sheds built from the surrounding lava stone and once used to dry and store fish. The stone huts are now concealed with a spongy soft green moss that add to a sense of mystery. Nearby the romantic church of Ingjaldshóll is picture perfect and maintains a thriving local population of a people with a proud and independent spirit.
There is simply so much to see on the peninsula and fortunately it’s within a 2 hour drive from the capital, Reykjavík. Many days could be spent exploring the sites or simply soaking in the natural energy. Alternatively, the peninsula can be driven as a day trip by visiting the highlights mentioned above.
From its seashore to its mountain tops, the magic of the Snæfellsjökull peninsula manifests itself in surprising ways.
