Don Khon, 4000 Islands - Laos

DON KHON - An island standing still

As the Mekong River flows through the southern lowlands of Laos it fans out and into narrow channels forming the 4,000 islands.

Amongst these islands that range from barely visible sandbanks to permanently inhabited islands is Don Khon. An island characterised by a river that entwines itself with the daily life of the local community.

Arriving to the island is an adventure in itself. Unwitting passengers take part in a balancing act with a long boat whose pulsing engine beats along to the life-giving waters. And as you enter this lost world, a serene calm washes over you.

There are beaches and islands but no sea or ocean for miles. There are powerful flowing waterfalls but no discernible mountainous or hilly terrain. The sunset glorious but upstaged by a setting full moon at dawn. And if you feel as though you’ve fallen down the rabbit hole, take solace in knowing the most popular activity here is doing nothing at all.

However, there are notable attractions that draw in visitors. The footprints of French colonial history are still visible on the island. The crumbling remnants of which continue to be digested by the island’s natural forces. Of particular notoriety is the railway line built in the 19th century to transport goods so as to avoid them succumbing to the destructive forces of the impassible rapids nearby.

The most visited waterfall on the island is Li Phi, nicknamed the Devil’s Corridor. The panoramic views on offer are spectacular and the force of the river is palpable. Further downstream boats ferry those hoping to see the scarce Irrawaddy dolphin. With its unmistakable bulging forehead, the dolphin is considered sacred by the people of Laos.

There are no cars here but renting a bicycle yields a fruitful day of exploration. Farmers tend to their rice paddies, fisherman cast open their nets and children play while bathing on the water’s edge. One path leads to another where oxen graze, roosters strut and coconut groves wave airily.

Most restaurants and accommodation line the riverbanks to take advantage of the mesmerising river views. Accommodation ranges from precariously perched wooden huts to luxurious floating cottages that come complete with lifejackets. Most restaurants feature hammocks and day beds, fortunate considering the slow pace of life here.

The unique geography of the island draws you in and holds you still, so much so that you just can’t help but let go of it all.